Champagne hasn’t been my friend for a long time. I go from bubbly to drunk to very hungover and unhappy in a matter of sips, and it’s a major thumbs down in that I adore a fizzy tipple once in a while. Although I like to occasionally dance with danger and partake a troublesome glass or two, I vastly prefer anything that’ll give me the same sensation without all the pain. Given that vodka and I are copacetic, I adore this incredibly simple martini that garners its bubbles from non-alcoholic pear cider. But not to worry, my off-the-wagon friends. This sparkler combines the ripe flavor of luscious pear vodka and floral St. Germain into a sweet, but strong (good and strong!) martini of the most delightful nature. I sip away with no regrets or apprehension, knowing that I’ll be staving off a vicious hangover. Well, assuming that I don’t drink five of these in a row without a second thought. Let’s pretend that’s never happened before, ok? Continue reading Sparkling Pear Martini
Category Archives: Recipes
California Cobb Salad with Green Goddess Dressing
I love a good story, and with a name like “Green Goddess” you know there’s a bit of a tale lingering around. An almost kitschy throwback to the 1920s and 30s, the dressing is a zesty combination of fresh herbs, anchovies and sour cream, enlivened by a little bit of lemon juice. The name supposedly originates from the Palace Hotel in San Francisco where the dressing was made as a tribute to the hit play, “The Green Goddess,” and alas, a star was born.
My guess is that the popularity of this gem died down with the waning of favor over anchovies – a pity, really, in that the flavor profile of anchovies themselves are addictive. If people can down caesar dressing by the gallon, what’s the deal with hating on anchovies? It’s plain malarkey.
The recipe for this dressing is a riff off a version from Food and Wine Magazine used to dress a chicken salad. My husband took a look at the picture and said, “This would be great without all of that other mess around it.” “So you mean just the dressing?” “Yeah, pretty much.” After a few tweaks to the recipe and a bed of greens, we were cooking with gas.
So where does a nostalgic dressing trip down memory lane take us. To a salad with just as much historical presence. 1930 at the Hollywood Brown Derby heralded the chefery of Robert Cobb and Chuck Wilson – apparently the owner Cobb wandered around the kitchen looking for something awesome to eat and threw together a crazy amalgamation of greens, bacon, eggs, avocado and blue cheese. I can appreciate a late-night scrounge for munchies, if I do say so myself.
In plating this salad, I love a careful presentation of each ingredient segmented into its own section. Something about the vibrant colors in their own spots just waiting to be mixed together with the lovely dressing is an impressor and a half. As you know, it’s all about the presentation…says the designer.
Recipe for
California Cobb Salad with Green Goddess Dressing
Ingredients
1/2 c. of parsley leaves, loosely packed
1/2 c. of basil leaves
1/4 c. of chopped dill
4 sprigs of tarragon, leaves removed and chopped
1 sprig of oregano, leaves removed and chopped
1 c. of mayonnaise
zest of 1 lemon
juice of half a lemon
1/4 c. of chopped chives
salt and pepper to taste
mixed greens (baby romaine is fun)
3 plum tomatoes, seeded and diced
2 perfectly hard-boiled eggs, diced
4 slices of bacon, cooked and crumbled
1 avocado, diced
1/2 c. of crumbled blue cheese
1 boneless skinless chicken breast, halved lengthwise into two cutlets
1 tbs. of olive oil
1 tbs. of herbes des provence
Begin by making the dressing – add all of the herbs except for the chives to the food processor, along with the garlic, lemon zest and juice. Blitz until finely chopped and then add the mayo. Blitz again to blend and then remove to a bowl. Stir in the chives and then season with salt and pepper. Chill.
Heat the olive oil in a skillet. While that warms, season the chicken with the herbes des provence and salt and pepper. Sear the chicken until it is cooked through and browned on both sides. Remove from pan and let cool slightly. Cube chicken and set aside.
Grab a large platter and make a bed of greens. Arrange the tomatoes, chopped eggs, chopped bacon, avocado, blue cheese and chicken in a pretty splay. Right before serving, toss the salad and top with the Green Goddess dressing. Tuck in and get down.
Mini Beef Wellington with Morel Bearnaise and Melted Leeks
Challenge Entry in 3rd Annual Morel Recipe Competition
This recipe was my humble entry into the 3rd Annual Marx Foods Morel Mushroom Competition. Try as we might to garner a win for this exceedingly delicious recipe, we did not come up victorious (we were 3rd place in the popular vote). But really, in all honesty, we feel as though we won the grand prize in simply getting to eat the mini wellington ourselves. Our heartfelt thanks to all who voted and spread the word for folks to vote, and a special thanks to Karen M. for slaving with me in the kitchen. You’re a doll!
This recipe was my humble entry into the 3rd Annual Marx Foods Morel Mushroom Competition. Try as we might to garner a win for this exceedingly delicious recipe, we did not come up victorious (we were 3rd place in the popular vote). But really, in all honesty, we feel as though we won the grand prize in simply getting to eat the mini wellington ourselves. Our heartfelt thanks to all who voted and spread the word for folks to vote, and a special thanks to Karen M. for slaving with me in the kitchen. You’re a doll!
When I think of ingredients that get me truly excited, morel mushrooms are high on the list. I mentioned to a friend that I was going to be crafting a recipe for the 3rd Annual Marx Foods Morel Mushroom Competition, and she asked what I’d do if I won 2 lbs. of fresh morels as the grand prize. I told her I’d probably roll around in them in a giggle fit, I love them so. The little earthy caps of goodness are so worthy of reverence, you can’t help but be overjoyed with the prospect of cooking something incredible with them. They make me want to move to Minnesota, the state that has named the morel as their official mushroom. Of course the morel mushroom has an invite to my party.
Since the chefs in the competition have been tasked to create “an original hors d’oeuvre recipe using dried morels,” I wanted to come up with something worthy of fireworks. I mean, if this dish was to set off my party with a bang and feature the complex flavors of the morel mushroom, it’d need to be amazing. So of course I needed to invite filet mignon to the soiree and some bearnaise to bring it all home. Now we’re talking!
This mini version of beef wellington is elevated to the utmost of decadence with the addition of morel mushrooms. Coupled with melted leeks and a delicate bearnaise soaked up by all the nooks and crannies in the mushrooms, the small bite belies huge flavors. These can be served as small bites (speared with a sprig of rosemary for a fun take on a skewer) or plated with a pool of bearnaise and leeks to attack with a vengeance. Either way, if this is your first bite of the night, know that the tone has been set for a party worth remembering. You should totally come. And bring that Dom P you know I like so much. We’re getting bubbly tonight.
Mini Beef Wellington with Morel Bearnaise and Melted Leeks
2 oz. dried morel mushrooms
2 c. of beef stock
2 c. of water
2 sprigs of tarragon
1 large shallot, finely chopped
1/4 cup white wine vinegar
1/2 cup white wine
4 egg yolks
1 stick and 1 tbs. of butter, melted
1/8 tsp of white pepper
salt to taste
4 tbs. of butter
1 shallot
8 oz. of mild flavored mushrooms (oyster, white button, crimini or chanterelle), finely chopped
1/8 tsp. of black pepper
1/4 tsp. of white pepper
1/4 tsp of tarragon
1 tsp. of salt
2 leeks, white and pale green parts only
3 tbs. of butter
1/8 tsp. white pepper
1/8 tsp. of salt
3 filet mignon steaks
1 tbs. dijon mustard
12 slices of pancetta
salt and pepper
1 box of puff pastry
1 egg, beaten
1 tbs. of cream
Prep the Morels
Bring the beef stock and water to a boil. Add morel mushrooms and turn off the heat. Put a lid on the pot and allow the mushrooms to steep in the beef stock for at least a half an hour.
Make the White Wine Reduction
Add the white wine, wine vinegar, shallot and tarragon to a small saucepan. Bring to a boil and then reduce the liquid to about 2-3 tablespoons. Strain mixture and set aside to cool.
Make the Duxelle
Melt butter over low heat in a skillet. When melted, crank up heat to medium and add your chopped shallot and mushrooms. Stir gently to keep from sticking, and keep heat on the low side so as to not color the mushrooms. When veggies are tender, add black pepper, white pepper, tarragon and salt. Taste for seasoning and correct if necessary. Continue to cook over medium low until the mushrooms absorb all of the juices released and the mixture forms a semi-dry paste. Chop half of the morel mushrooms and mix them into the duxelle. Set aside and allow to cool.
Melt the Leeks
Cut the leeks in half lengthwise and rinse thoroughly to remove any dirt or sand. Finely chop the leeks. Melt the butter in a skillet over medium heat and add the leeks. Cook gently until tender, about 10 minutes. Set aside.
Assemble the Wellington
Preheat the oven to 425°. Flour a cutting board and lay out your puff pastry. Flour a rolling pin and roll out sheet into a slightly larger square. Cut into 6 squares and top each one with a slice of pancetta. Spoon a few tablespoons of the mushroom duxelle on top of the pancetta. Cut each of the filets into four cubes and season with coarse salt and cracked pepper. Brush the cut sides with a small amount of dijon mustard and place on top of the duxelle. Top with some more duxelle and bring the corners of the puff pastry together in the center to close up the package. Place the mini wellington seam side down on a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper. Repeat until all of the cubes have been wrapped. Cut a small cross into the tops of each of the parcels. In a small bowl, beat together the egg and cream. Brush the tops of the puff pastry with the egg wash and sprinkle with kosher salt and cracked pepper. Bake in the oven for 18-20 minutes, or until the tops are golden and lovely. Let rest for at least 5 minutes before serving.
Make the Bearnaise
Melt the butter – I like to use a pyrex because it’s easy to pour. Put the 4 egg yolks and vinegar reduction into the blender and mix on low. Slowly stream in half of the melted butter and allow to emulsify. Crank up the speed to high and stream in the rest of the butter. Your sauce will be thick and bright yellow, like a slightly loose mayonnaise. Season with salt and white pepper to taste. Chop the rest of the morel mushrooms and fold into the bearnaise, along with half of the leeks. Keep warm until ready to serve.
Plate and Serve
To serve, spread a bit of the bearnaise on the bottom of a plate. Slice one of the wellingtons in half. Mound a small amount of the remaining leeks on the plate and top with a wellington half. Add the morel mushrooms to the side of the wellington and garnish with chives or a rosemary sprig (or both). Call up the crew and kick boredom’s ass with an impromptu party of the most fabulous kind.
If you’d like to serve as a passable appetizer, cut wellingtons into quarters. Spear each quarter with a sprig of rosemary with the leaves removed from the woodier portion of the stem, allowing you to use it as a skewer. Mix all of the leeks into the bearnaise and serve in a bowl on the side for dipping.
Porchetta with Wild Boar Stuffing
Can I just take a second to swoon? Fennel pollen is a dream. I officially have a crush on the stuff and I am not even a bit ashamed. It’s floral and complex and imparts the delicious flavor of fennel in the most perfect way. Why have I not been tossing this stuff on everything? Fennel pollen cheerios? Fennel pollen Haagen Daas? Yes, please.
Ok, maybe fennel pollen and ice cream isn’t the perfect marriage, but as part of the marinade for porchetta, it’s deliciousness personified. Authentic porchetta is a celebration of pork – a tender roast is marinated in olive oil, fennel and garlic, wrapped in pork skin, trussed and rotisseried over an open flame. The outside becomes super crispy while the inside of the roast stays moist. In Italy, this is street food at its best – tender slices are tucked into crusty bread to form an addictive panino. This version leverages a couple of different cuts to make the grade – a sirloin roast of pork is butterflied and stuffed with ground wild boar and pears. The entire baby is wrapped up like a package with peppery pancetta and roasted until crispy. I’d be lying if I said that it’s not a brilliant combo. Nay, a genius combo.
For a little extra sustenance, I roast the porchetta over a bed of herbs and onions. I also toss some quartered yukon golds with rosemary and olive oil into the oven and allow them to roast along side of the roast. It’s about as good a Tuscan feast as I can get, and for those blissful tastes of roasted pork and fennel pollen, I’m cheesing ear to ear.
Recipe for
Porchetta with Wild Boar Stuffing
Ingredients
1 pork roast, preferably sirloin and about 5 lbs.
1 tbs. of fennel pollen
2 tsp. of telicherry pepper (black pepper)
2 tbs. of kosher salt
2 sprigs of rosemary, leaves removed and minced
4 cloves of garlic, minced
pinch of red pepper flakes
1/2 c. of olive oil
1 lb. of ground wild boar (or ground pork)
1 clove of garlic, minced
1/2 tsp. of fennel seeds
1/8 tsp. of fennel pollen
1 tbs. of paprika
1 tsp. of salt
1 tsp. of black pepper
pinch of cayenne pepper
4 tbs. of chopped parsley
1 tbs. of olive oil
1/2 stick of butter
1 stalk of celery, chopped
3 shallots, chopped
1 pear, cored and chopped
1 tbs. of fresh sage, chopped
1 tbs. of fresh thyme leaves, chopped
1/8 tsp. of white pepper
4 eggs, beaten
16 oz. of pancetta
handful of sage leaves
handful of thyme leaves
handful of rosemary leaves
1 large onion, sliced
2 c. of chicken stock
1 c. of white wine
2 lbs. of yukon gold potatoes
1/2 c. of olive oil
bunch of rosemary
kosher salt and black pepper
Begin by butterflying the roast (or have your butcher do it for you). Mix the fennel pollen, black pepper, garlic, rosemary, red pepper, salt and olive oil into a paste. Rub the roast with the paste and then place in a tupperware. Refrigerate overnight.
In a large skillet, warm the olive oil. Add the shallots, garlic, celery and pears and cook until tender. Next add the ground wild boar, fennel pollen, fennel seeds, paprika, salt, white pepper, black pepper, cayenne, sage and thyme. Cook until meat is no longer pink. Add the butter to the pan and turn off the heat. Once butter melts, stir in the fresh bread crumbs. Let the mixture cool a bit and then stir in the eggs. Set the stuffing aside.
Preheat the oven to 375°. Set up a roasting pan with a rack, lining the pan with the rosemary, thyme and sage. Top with the onions and pour the chicken broth and wine over the herbs and onions. Set aside.
On a cutting board, line up slices of pancetta to form a base for the roast. Place the butterflied roast on top of the pancetta and fill the center with the stuffing. You may have more stuffing than you can use, but this can be saved for another dish, to include stuffing turkey breasts or mushrooms. Wrap the two sides of the roast over the stuffing to form a cylinder. Continue to cover the roast with slices of pancetta, leaving no gaps. Grab a length of kitchen twine and gently slide it under the roast. Tie a tight knot, holding the length of the roast together. Continue to tie rounds of twine around the roast perpendicular to the first tie. Once the roast is tightly trussed, set on the rack in the roasting pan. Pop the roast in the oven, cooking for about 90 minutes or until a thermometer inserted into the center of the roast reads 150°.
After you put the roast in the oven, wash and quarter the yukon golds. Chuck in a baking pan with the rosemary, olive oil, salt and pepper. Bake in the oven with the roast, making sure to shake the pan around every 30 minutes to loosen the potatoes and crisp them on all sides.
Once the roast is finished, let it rest for 15 minutes to keep it moist and allow the juices to redistribute. Slice the roast and serve with potatoes and the wonderfully melted onions and juices on the bottom of the roasting pan. And last but not least, add fennel pollen to the list of beneficiaries on your will for it is deserving of that much love.
Tortelli with Wild Boar and Stinging Nettles
A little danger in the kitchen can pay off royally – high flames, sharp knives and occasionally some tricky ingredients serve as the makings for many a glorious supper. Stinging nettles are not nearly as dangerous as they sound assuming that you can play by the rules. Handled raw, they will mess you up with vicious barbs in your skin. But once you give them a luxurious bath in some boiling hot water, they lose all their bite. Why mess with them at all? Because these lovely greens have an earthy, nuttiness that kicks the ass of spinach any day.
The nettles take a lovely home as the filling for meat tortelli – wild boar is simmered until perfectly tender and blended with mortadella, pancetta and cheese. Wrapped in homemade pasta and dressed with a light sauce of cream and peas, underneath the delicate flavors lies an air of mystery and danger. As your guests tuck into these toothsome parcels, feel free to keep the secret of your forays into adventure with the exotic ingredients contained in this recipe. I mean, you are pretty much the next 007 of the kitchen. Or at least that’s what I hear.
This recipe makes a large amount of pasta, so feel free to freeze any leftovers for later. Spread the tortelli on a cookie sheet dusted with semolina and pop into the freezer, making sure that none of the pasta is touching. If you’re sick of cream sauce for your second go round with these guys, you can use a marinara or vodka sauce to mix things up. Or, even better, cook in a pot of chicken stock for an exemplary tortellini en brodo (tortellini soup). For leftover filling, make crepes or buy egg roll wrappers and make canneloni. Roll a few tablespoons of filling into the wrappers, top with bechamel or marinara and bake in the oven until bubbly, about 30 minutes.
Recipe for
Tortelli with Wild Boar and Stinging Nettles
Ingredients
1 tbs. olive oil
2 tbs. butter
1 lb. ground wild boar
2 c. of chicken stock
1/2 onion
3 oz. of pancetta
6 oz. of mortadella
4 eggs
2 c. of grated locatelli
1/4 tsp. of nutmeg
1 tsp. of ground sage
1/8 tsp. of ground rosemary
1 shallot, finely diced
8 oz. of stinging nettles, blanched and chopped
1/4 tsp. of white pepper
salt to taste
1 c. of cake flour
2 c. of all-purpose flour
4 eggs
pinch of salt
1 tsp. of olive oil
2 tbs. of butter
2 tbs. of flour
2 c. of heavy cream
1 c. of milk
1 c. of locatelli, grated
1/8 tsp. white pepper
salt to taste
1 c. of green peas
Optional Equipment
pressure cooker
stand mixer with dough blade
pasta attachment for stand mixer
3 in. ring mold
Begin by making the meat filling. Melt the butter and olive oil in a dutch oven. Add the ground boar and onions and cook until the meat is no longer pink. Add the chicken stock and simmer on medium-low until all liquid has evaporated, about an hour. Alternatively, you can cook this mixture in the pressure cooker for 15 minutes to save time. Allow to cool a bit and set aside.
In a food processor, add the mortadella, pancetta, nettles, rosemary and shallots and chop finely. Add the wild boar and blitz until a smooth puree. Remove mixture to a large bowl and add the eggs, cheese, nutmeg, sage and white pepper. Taste for salt (should be on the saltier side) and reseason. Set aside.
Now to make the dough – and feel free to use your favorite pasta recipe (or pre-made pasta sheets to save time). In the bowl of a stand mixer, add the flour and the salt. Make a well in the middle and add the eggs and olive oil. Fit the mixer with the dough blade and allow to mix until a slightly sticky but well-mixed dough forms. Dust the countertop with flour and knead until smooth. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for about an hour.
Before I start making tortelli, I like to set up a couple of elements to make the job easier:
- a small bowl of water for sealing the edges of the pasta
- a few cookie sheets lined with wax paper and dusted with flour (semolina works well)
- a little mound of flour to dip the bottoms of each tortelli in after they are rolled (which prevents them from sticking to the wax paper)
Once your prep space is set up, start with the pasta dough. Take out the dough and cut into four segments. Grab a hunk of dough and dust with flour, leaving the other three segments wrapped in plastic so as not to allow them to get hard. Run the dough through a pasta maker, starting with the widest setting and working your way down to the second to thinnest setting (on my pasta machine, that’s #7). Flour the counter and lay out the sheet of dough. Cut out circles using a ring mold.
To make the tortelli, take a pasta round and fill with a few teaspoons of the filling. Brush the edge with a little bit of water and fold into a half moon, pushing out any excess air as you seal the edges. Take the two points of the half moon and fold them in on each other, squeezing them together to seal. Dip the bottom of the tortelli in the flour and then place on the cookie sheet. Repeat until you run out of dough.
Put a large pot of water on to boil. While it’s warming up, make your sauce. Melt the butter in a saucepan. Mix in the flour and stir to form a paste. Slowly stir in the milk and cream in dribs and drabs, constantly whisking to form a smooth sauce. Crank the heat up and keep on whisking until the sauce thickens. Stir in the locatelli, white pepper and salt and turn heat down to low to keep warm while the pasta cooks.
Once the water comes to a boil, drop in the tortelli. Once they’ve cooked for 3 minutes, toss the peas into the water. Allow to cook for a mere 30 seconds, and then drain. Toss the pasta with the sauce, making sure to be careful not to break any of the tortelli, and serve immediately.
Pulled Boar Panini with Miner’s Lettuce and Lemon Aioli
Sometimes it’s hard to believe that a dish with a fancy name and a fancier presentation can also be soul-satisfying comfort food. This seemingly hoity-toity recipe is, at its most base form, an open-faced pulled pork sandwich. The ingredients married together create a taste profile that is wholly sumptuous and ever so necessary. I fell in love after first bite and promised myself that I’d make this one on repeat and revel in the glory as much as possible.
I use wild boar shoulder for this recipe, and thought the cut can take some time to braise until tender, I speed up the process with a trip to the pressure cooker. If you can’t get boar, simply substitute pork shoulder – the taste won’t be nearly as rich, but you’ll still be able to get down. Once the meat is shredded and cooled a bit, it rejoins the party on a raft of ciabatta, sharp provolone and a zesty homemade lemon aioli. Miner’s lettuce serves as an interesting counterpoint for the unctuous boar and salty cheese – it’s texture alone, similar to spinach, adds the fresh finesse that makes this one a stunner. Although this dish is an appetizer, just know that if you serve this dish first, chances are very good that people will fill up on these suckers with reckless abandon without a thought of saving room for anything else. They are just. that. good.
Recipe for
Pulled Boar Panini with Miner’s Lettuce and Lemon Aioli
Ingredients
1 lb. wild boar shoulder, cut into 2-3 large chunks
4 c. of chicken stock
1 fennel bulb, quartered
1 onion, quartered
2 bay leaves
1 tsp of fennel pollen
2 cl. of garlic, minced
1 egg
zest of one lemon
juice of half a lemon
1 tsp. of dijon mustard
1/2 c. of olive oil
salt and pepper to taste
4 oz. of miner’s lettuce, stems removed
1 1/2 c. of sharp provolone cheese, shredded
1 loaf of ciabatta
Begin by preparing the wild boar. Add the boar, fennel, onion, stock, fennel pollen and bay leaves to a pressure cooker. Bring to high pressure and then allow to cook for 30 minutes. Let the pressure subside naturally and remove boar from cooking liquid. Shred with two forks and set aside.
Now make the aioli. Add the egg, lemon, zest and mustard to a blender. Blitz on high and slowly stream in the olive oil. Turn off blender and taste for salt and pepper. The aioli should be pretty loose and not as thick as a traditional mayonnaise, so thin with additional olive oil if necessary. Set aside.
Halve the ciabatta lengthwise and spread with some of the aioli, saving a few tablespoons for drizzling. Top with the shredded boar and add the provolone to the top. Bake in the oven on 400° until the cheese has melted. Remove the two ciabatta loaves to a cutting board and cut into 8 pieces for each loaf. Sprinkle miner’s lettuce liberally over the top of the panini and drizzle with additional aioli. Serve while still standing, eating it right from the kitchen and not stopping to take it to the table.
Fiddlehead Ferns with Gremolata
While many find themselves in the kitchen purely out of duty, I live for the moments of complete and total glory – the times where a new recipe, technique or ingredient inspire you to keep on plugging away at any new culinary quest you can get your hands on. It’s like Dr. Seuss once said, “You have brains in your head.You have feet in your shoes. You can steer yourself any direction you choose. You’re on your own. And you know what you know. And YOU are the guy who’ll decide where to go.” Replace the shoes bit for a knife in your hand, and that pretty much sums up my quest for culinary majesty.
In planning the Feast of the Seven Boars, a lovely array of dishes with the aforementioned protein as the focus, my buddy Karen recommended we do something fun with the veggies. Off to Marx Foods for inspiration and lo and behold, the Wild Produce Pack. Bleedingly fresh ingredients that we’d never cooked before left us excited for a new adventure. In addition to the miner’s lettuce and stinging nettles, we received a glorious treasure trove of fiddlehead ferns. These little gems are an aesthetic delight – vibrant green and perfectly curled into delicate spirals.
We had learned that they tasted of asparagus and are often served with hollandaise, so in an homage to their taste-profile companion, we decided to follow one of my favorite preparations of asparagus – a quick saute with lemony gremolata. It seemed apropos in that the addictive combination of lemon zest, garlic, parsley and olive oil are as bright as springtime, and the fiddleheads themselves are a true indicator that spring is right around the corner. How could we not all fall in love?
Recipe for
Fiddlehead Ferns with Gremolata
Ingredients
1 lb. of fiddlehead ferns, trimmed of black ends
1 cl. of garlic, minced
1 cup of loosely packed parsley leaves
zest of 1 lemon
1/8 tsp. of freshly cracked pepper
1 tbs. of olive oil
1 tbs. of butter
kosher salt
Begin by finely chopping the parsley leaves. Add the lemon zest, pepper and olive oil and stir. Set aside.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt. Add the fiddlehead ferns and blanch quickly, for about a minute. Drain well and rinse with cold water. Set aside.
In a skillet, melt the butter. Add the fiddleheads and toss to warm through, about 2 minutes. Stir in the gremolata and sprinkle with kosher salt to taste. Serve immediately.
Apple Crumble Ice Cream
Back when I bought the ice cream attachment for my Kitchenaid standing mixer, I snagged a copy of the Ben and Jerry’s cook book at the same time. What a dream – in a sheer moment of atavistic delight, I poured through the book marveling at reckless abandon at which the recipes had been shared. And all before I’d actually made a single recipe in the book. Once I discovered that their cream base recipe was pretty damn close to the real thing, it was time to raise the culinary dead from the grave. Many years before, I’d fallen in love with the Ben and Jerry’s flavor Apple Crumble. It was apple pie a la mode by the spoonful and nothing but goodness. Alas, the flavor was retired to the B&J graveyard and I was left in the lurch in terms of getting my Apple Crumble fix.
After a bit of tinkering and some hoping and praying, I made my first batch of Apple Crumble knock off, and all I could do was revel in the results. It was ever so wonderful – a reminder that nothing in this life is ever truly lost.
The secret to making this recipe well is getting all of the components good and cold before putting them in the ice cream maker. Make sure to leave plenty of time to stage all of the ingredients and know that when you are done, you’ll be rewarded with a quart of loveliness that will last you for a goodly while. Well, maybe not so long depending on whom you decide to share it with. I absolutely authorize you to share with no one if you like 😉
Recipe for
Apple Crumble Ice Cream
Ingredients
6 tbs of butter, softened
1/2 c. of brown sugar
2 tbs. of white sugar
1/2 tsp. of cinnamon
3/4 c. of flour
2 apples, cored and diced
2 tbs. of vanilla sugar
1 tbs of butter
1/4 tsp of cinnamon
2 eggs
2 c. of heavy cream
1 c. of light brown sugar
1 c. of milk
Preheat the oven to 350°. In a small bowl, mix the softened butter, sugars, cinnamon and flour with a pastry knife or a fork, forming large crumbs. You can also squeeze the mix into chunks with your fingers to form large crumbles. Bake in the oven on an ungreased cookie sheet until browned, about 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and gently crumble the mixture with a fork. Chill.
In a skillet, melt the 1 tbs. of butter. Add the apples, sugar and cinnamon and saute until apples are tender. Set aside and chill.
Begin making the ice cream base by beating together the eggs, cream, sugar and milk until frothy and lovely, about 5 minutes. Pour base into your ice cream maker and chill according to the manufacturer’s directions.
Once the ice cream has finished churning, fold in the chilled apples and crumbles. Transfer into an airtight quart container and chill. Eat with reckless abandon.
Ribollita
*in my best Sophia Petrillo from the Golden Girls voice* Picture this, Tuscany 1952, you’re in need of a dish to feed your family and all you’ve got is the minestrone from last night, some stale bread and an old prosciutto bone lying around. What do you do? Make only the most delicious soup imaginable, quite possibly better than that minestrone from the night before.
But seriously, kids, how lovely is it when a great plan comes together. A few pantry ingredients, maybe even some leftovers and a bit of time putzing around the kitchen and voila! Gorgeousness on a plate, or in this case, a bowl. The name itself gives it away with this one – ribollita is Italian for reboiled. Any glamour and cache that this soup might garner from its placement on modern Italian menus is only a recent distinction – the dish has the humble origins of true peasant food. Just as in Brazil, a pot of black beans can be extended for additional eaters with some water and a little more rice, this soup is extended by day-old bread soaking up the rich vegetable broth. A smidge of good quality cheese (which you regular readers know that, for me, is a smattering of locatelli) and you are in like flynn.
There are much fancier versions than this one, but I love this recipe because it’s a weekday charmer. No prosciutto bone here, and a parmesan rind only if you have one around. Black kale (cavolo nero or dinosaur kale) is the star of the show, but can be replaced by any kale or bitter greens you can find. Canned beans and pantry chicken stock speed along the process, and by dicing everything in the food processor saves a hell of a lot of time. In addition, if you leave out the bacon and chicken stock, you’ve got a comforting vegetarian supper on your hands. No cheese and it’s vegan. A warm bowl of love for all sorts of eaters? It doesn’t get any better than that.
Recipe for
Ribollita
Ingredients
2 qts. of stock
2 medium tomatoes, diced
1 bunch of black kale, ribbed and roughly chopped
1 can of canellini beans
1 carrot, chopped
1 stalk of celery, chopped
1/2 onion, chopped
sprig of rosemary
sprig of thyme
parmesan rind (optional)
2 tbs. of olive oil
3 strips of bacon, roughly chopped
slices of old, stale bread or toasted ciabatta
grated parmesan
Heat a large soup pot or dutch oven on high and add your olive oil. Once it begins to shimmer, toss in your bacon and allow it to crisp up a bit. Add your onions and cook until translucent. Add the carrots and celery and cook until fragrant. Add your tomatoes, rosemary and thyme and stir to warm through. Lastly, add the stock, parmesan rind and cannelini beans. Allow stock to come to a boil and fold in the black kale. Cook until kale is tender over medium-high heat, about 15-20 minutes.
To serve, place a few slices of ciabatta (or hunks of old bread) on the bottom of a soup bowl. Ladle hot soup over the bread and top with grated parmesan.
Breakfast Tacos with Potatoes, Chorizo and Egg
Say what you will about Texas, but they get things absolutely right when it comes to fast food – chiefly, above all else, the glory of Taco Cabana. The name is so misleading in its plebian nature, while the franchise dishes out tasty fillings in tender, pliant tortillas. May all the Taco Bells be stricken from the earth in place of this bastion of tex mex wonders.
I first had Taco Cabana on a trip to Austin City Limits – the hubby and I woke up early at the hotel and decided to forage for breakfast. We wandered out of the hotel and found a shopping center with a closed Whole Foods and a very open Taco Cabana. With the best of intentions, we ordered a dozen mixed breakfast tacos in the hopes of bringing back the bounty to our friends back at the hotel. But no – we lapsed into total food amensia and ate every single taco without even realizing what we were doing. Dennis and I stared at each other in wonderment after attacking the mass of eggs, beans, potatoes, chorizo and cheese. It was just so good, we devoured the goodness with no hesitation.
In that I don’t find myself in Texas too often (read: ever), I had to find a way to get my breakfast taco fix at home. I’d be lying if I told you that I actually eat this for breakfast though. This is the kind of home cooking that is thrown together at midnight and eaten directly from the kitchen island standing up. Utensils be damned, eating this dish transports us back to that day where we found some serious goodness in a Texas parking lot in a moment of unexpected perfection.
Recipe for
Breakfast Tacos with Potatoes, Chorizo and Egg
Ingredients
2 medium potatoes, cubed
3 cloves of garlic, smashed
1 tsp. of salt
1 lb. of fresh chorizo (pork or beef)
6 eggs
flour or corn tortillas
chopped tomato
shredded cheese
salsa
cilantro
chopped onion
Add potatoes, garlic and salt to a small saucepan and cover with water. Heat on high and boil until potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork. Drain and set aside.
In a large skillet, cook the chorizo, breaking up the large pieces with a spatula. When the meat is just about cooked through, add the potatoes and allow them to crisp up with the chorizo. Set aside.
In another skillet, heat 1 tbs. of olive oil on medium. Scramble your eggs in small bowl and slip into the pan with the oil. Turn the heat to medium low and gently push the eggs around the pan, allowing curds to slowly form.
Assemble your taco by scooping some of the chorizo and potatoes onto a warmed tortilla. Top with eggs and a bit of the condiments of your choosing – Dennis likes shredded cheddar, but I love a bit of cilantro, tomato and onion. Dab with a bit of salsa and eat with reckless abandon.