Category Archives: Lighten Up

Strawberries with Elderflower and Mint

I adore putting together a menu, but like a grocery shopper entering the store with a rumbling tummy, I find that I often set myself up for a challenge.  Between my need to feed my guests with reckless abandon, to a love of a seemingly daunting menu, I face the issue of running out of steam.  Couple that with my lack of prowess in the realm of desserts, I find that many of my menus end up being a bit front-loaded in terms of the serious cooking.  Which is why, lovely readers, I am a sucker for a dessert that is simple to prepare, with a heavy dose of wow factor.

Summertime on the east coast (or pretty much anytime on the west coast – you guys have easy access to berries!) always meant an abundance of ripe strawberries just begging to be picked up and taken home.  In my house growing up, we always kept it simple – cut the tops, halve the berries and toss with a few teaspoons of sugar.  As the berries hung out, they’d give off the most lovely scarlet juice, which we then used to sauce the little shortcakes you could pick up in the produce section of the store.  A little whipped cream, and we were in business. Continue reading Strawberries with Elderflower and Mint

Fiddlehead Ferns with Gremolata

Fiddlehead Ferns with Gremolata © Photo by Angela GunderWhile many find themselves in the kitchen purely out of duty, I live for the moments of complete and total glory – the times where a new recipe, technique or ingredient inspire you to keep on plugging away at any new culinary quest you can get your hands on.  It’s like Dr. Seuss once said, “You have brains in your head.You have feet in your shoes. You can steer yourself any direction you choose. You’re on your own.  And you know what you know. And YOU are the guy who’ll decide where to go.”  Replace the shoes bit for a knife in your hand, and that pretty much sums up my quest for culinary majesty.

In planning the Feast of the Seven Boars, a lovely array of dishes with the aforementioned protein as the focus, my buddy Karen recommended we do something fun with the veggies.  Off to Marx Foods for inspiration and lo and behold, the Wild Produce Pack.  Bleedingly fresh ingredients that we’d never cooked before left us excited for a new adventure.  In addition to the miner’s lettuce and stinging nettles, we received a glorious treasure trove of fiddlehead ferns.  These little gems are an aesthetic delight – vibrant green and perfectly curled into delicate spirals.

We had learned that they tasted of asparagus and are often served with hollandaise, so in an homage to their taste-profile companion, we decided to follow one of my favorite preparations of asparagus – a quick saute with lemony gremolata.  It seemed apropos in that the addictive combination of lemon zest, garlic, parsley and olive oil are as bright as springtime, and the fiddleheads themselves are a true indicator that spring is right around the corner.  How could we not all fall in love?

Recipe for

Fiddlehead Ferns with Gremolata

Ingredients
1 lb. of fiddlehead ferns, trimmed of black ends
1 cl. of garlic, minced
1 cup of loosely packed parsley leaves
zest of 1 lemon
1/8 tsp. of freshly cracked pepper
1 tbs. of olive oil
1 tbs. of butter
kosher salt

Begin by finely chopping the parsley leaves.  Add the lemon zest, pepper and olive oil and stir.  Set aside.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt.  Add the fiddlehead ferns and blanch quickly, for about a minute.  Drain well and rinse with cold water.  Set aside.

In a skillet, melt the butter.  Add the fiddleheads and toss to warm through, about 2 minutes.  Stir in the gremolata and sprinkle with kosher salt to taste.  Serve immediately.

Ribollita

*in my best Sophia Petrillo from the Golden Girls voice* Picture this, Tuscany 1952, you’re in need of a dish to feed your family and all you’ve got is the minestrone from last night, some stale bread and an old prosciutto bone lying around.  What do you do?  Make only the most delicious soup imaginable, quite possibly better than that minestrone from the night before.

Ribollita © Photo by Angela Gunder
But seriously, kids, how lovely is it when a great plan comes together.  A few pantry ingredients, maybe even some leftovers and a bit of time putzing around the kitchen and voila! Gorgeousness on a plate, or in this case, a bowl.  The name itself gives it away with this one – ribollita is Italian for reboiled.  Any glamour and cache that this soup might garner from its placement on modern Italian menus is only a recent distinction – the dish has the humble origins of true peasant food.  Just as in Brazil, a pot of black beans can be extended for additional eaters with some water and a little more rice, this soup is extended by day-old bread soaking up the rich vegetable broth.  A smidge of good quality cheese (which you regular readers know that, for me, is a smattering of locatelli) and you are in like flynn.

Ribollita © Photo by Angela Gunder

There are much fancier versions than this one, but I love this recipe because it’s a weekday charmer.  No prosciutto bone here, and a parmesan rind only if you have one around.  Black kale (cavolo nero or dinosaur kale) is the star of the show, but can be replaced by any kale or bitter greens you can find.  Canned beans and pantry chicken stock speed along the process, and by dicing everything in the food processor saves a hell of a lot of time.  In addition, if you leave out the bacon and chicken stock, you’ve got a comforting vegetarian supper on your hands.  No cheese and it’s vegan.  A warm bowl of love for all sorts of eaters?  It doesn’t get any better than that.

Recipe for

Ribollita

Ingredients
2 qts. of stock
2 medium tomatoes, diced
1 bunch of black kale, ribbed and roughly chopped
1 can of canellini beans
1 carrot, chopped
1 stalk of celery, chopped
1/2 onion, chopped
sprig of rosemary
sprig of thyme
parmesan rind (optional)
2 tbs. of olive oil
3 strips of bacon, roughly chopped

slices of old, stale bread or toasted ciabatta
grated parmesan

Heat a large soup pot or dutch oven on high and add your olive oil.  Once it begins to shimmer, toss in your bacon and allow it to crisp up a bit.  Add your onions and cook until translucent.  Add the carrots and celery and cook until fragrant.  Add your tomatoes, rosemary and thyme and stir to warm through.  Lastly, add the stock, parmesan rind and cannelini beans.  Allow stock to come to a boil and fold in the black kale.  Cook until kale is tender over medium-high heat, about 15-20 minutes.

To serve, place a few slices of ciabatta (or hunks of old bread) on the bottom of a soup bowl.  Ladle hot soup over the bread and top with grated parmesan.

Chickarina Soup

I don’t remember cans of Chickarina soup in my house as a child, but they were certainly a big hit during my college years.  When we went the route of a splurge, my best friend and I would throw a few cans of Chickarina into the cart for random lunches and dinners.  But because we went through them so quickly and couldn’t afford to get them all the time, Chickarina became a bit of a delicacy.  With my proclivity for making soups and stocks even back then, I’m surprised I didn’t attempt a homemade version back then.  No matter – I came around to it eventually 🙂

chickarina

Upon researching this recipe, I tried to find out more of the history of Chickarina.  Like some deep, dark government secret, there is no true history available online.  What the hell?  There were a few mentions of a “chickarina” jingle from way back in the day, including this one from a site dating it back to the 60s.  And a whole lot of people labeling it as Italian Wedding Soup, which it’s not.  Though both dishes have mini meatballs and acini di pepe (mini pasta pearls – the name means “peppercorns” in Italian), the spinach or escarole is replaced with carrots and celery for a chicken soup + meatball experience.  It’s excellent through and through, and a lovely riff on home cooked goodness. Continue reading Chickarina Soup

Purple Potatoes Vinaigrette

This salad is the perfect tribute to summer, giving traditional mayo-laden potato salad a run for the money.  Tender potatoes soak in a vibrant dressing full of basil and garlic, imparting mounds of flavor.  Give this one a twirl at your next barbecue – it’s the perfect partner to grilled meats.

Purple Potatoes Vinaigrette

1 lb of purple creamer potatoes, halved
4 tbs. of pesto, homemade or jarred (here’s a recipe for Watercress Pesto)
2 tbs. of red wine vinegar
1/3 c. of olive oil
1 cl. of garlic, minced
salt and pepper (to taste)
3 plum tomatoes, diced

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Drop in potatoes and then cook until fork tender. Drain the potatoes well and toss into the fridge to cool.

Whisk the pesto, vinegar, olive oil and garlic. Toss potatoes with tomatoes and dressing. Taste for salt and pepper. Serve.

Lexi’s Favorite Vegetarian Chili

I know what you’re thinking, folks, “Really, Angela? Vegetarian chili?” But you must, must, must try this, die hard meat eater or no.  My father, who I am sure is 99% dinosaur (and I’m talking the T-Rex variety) loves this chili like no other, and he doesn’t give out the compliments for non-meat dishes lightly.  He’ll even eat this straight up as a main course with not a bit of meat on the side.  If that ain’t a testament to quality, then I don’t know what is.

My dad scored this recipe for my sister, Lexi, who then passed it to me.  It utilizes veggie crumbles, found in the frozen food section with the meatless entrees and veggie burgers.  A solid number of veggies and beer help round out the flavor for a chili that won’t for one second make you miss beef.  Dress it up with some shredded cheddar or sour cream and you are in business.  It true slacker mode, I have eaten this cold with Fritos scoops and guess what?  Still delicious.

PS. This was the first time that my sister had ever been in the kitchen with me for a photo shoot for the blog.  She laughed at how small the plate was that I took the macro photo from.  Even though I have a bigger kitchen now and more natural light, I still shoot small like I did in NYC in the itty, bitty kitchen with not a bit of sunshine to illuminate my food.  This photo above is her demo of the scale of the photo shoot, and not the amount of chili that I gave her as her ration.  She ate two full bowls, thank you very much.

Recipe for

Lexi’s Favorite Vegetarian Chili

Ingredients
4 tbs. of olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1 green bell pepper, finely chopped
3 stalks of celery, finely choped
4 cloves of garlic, minced
1 bottle of beer
1 can of vegetable stock
2 bay leaves
1 can of black beans, drained
1 can of pinto beans, drained
1 can of light kidney beans or pink beans, drained
2 large cans of diced tomatoes (can use 3 cans of Ro-Tel for extra kick)
1 c. of spicy salsa
1 handful of tortilla chips, crushed
1/4 c. of chili powder
1 tsp. of garlic powder
1 tsp. of oregano
salt and pepper

In a large pot or dutch oven, heat olive oil.  Add the vegetables and sauté until translucent.  Pour in the beer, the stock and the bay leaves and let simmer until most of the liquid has evaporated.  Stir in the veggie crumbles and let warm while you start opening cans.

Add the beans, tomatoes and salsa and stir.  Mix in the crushed tortilla chips, chili powder, garlic powder and oregano.  Let simmer for about 10 minutes and then taste for salt and pepper.  You can amp up the heat with hot sauce or cayenne pepper if things are too tame.

Serve chili with shredded cheese, chopped onion and diced jalapeno.

Sesame Cucumbers

I love this recipe for a multitude of reasons – in true Shakespearean style, let me count the ways…

  1. In an almost atavistic longing for my childhood, you remind me of the Pickled Broccoli Stems that I could eat in heaps and heaps at the now closed Chinese restaurant, Hsiang Foong, or as we called it, “The Foong”.  You were later replaced with El Pollo Rico, another love of mine, but I digress.
  2. PF Changs sells you for way too much money, but with a bit of change and a few minutes, I can make a far superior version of you in every way.
  3. You are so friggin’ easy to make.

Make this as a side dish for a dumpling feast, or as an appetizer for your next FU to Chinese takeout, whereby you prepare a fresh meal without all the MSG, overcooked veggies, oversauced meat and stale fortune cookies (fortune and all).  Your tummy will thank you.

Recipe for

Sesame Cucumbers

Ingredients
1 english cucumber (called seedless or hothouse)
2 tbs. of sesame oil
4 tbs. of rice wine vinegar
4 tbs. of water
1 tsp. of salt
2 tsp. of sugar
1 tsp. black sesame seeds
1 tsp. white sesame seeds
dash of chili oil (optional)

Slice your cucumber into thin, 1/4 in. rounds and place in a bowl.  Add all other ingredients and stir gently.  Let sit in the fridge for 15-20 minutes and then serve.

Fresh Tomato Salsa

There’s something to be a said for a good recipe passed on from trusted cook to trusted cook.  Finding one of these gems is truly like finding a hidden treasure – the question is whether you’ll share once you do.  Given that I’m not at all proprietary, and I love the fact that these posts get you guys cooking, eating and sharing in turn, how could I not pass it on!

This one comes from my grandmother, Vo, who was given this recipe by a friend, who in turn received it from her grandmother – the same recipe that she used back in Mexico.  Something as seemingly pedestrian as salsa becomes a celebration of the sweetness of ripe tomatoes and the piquant flavor of jalapeno.  I was surprised to learn that there’s nary the lime or bit of oil in this one – just veggies and goodness. Continue reading Fresh Tomato Salsa

Grilled Ginger Lemon Chicken

If you haven’t heard me say this enough, I love my Vo.  She’s such a light and inspires me on a daily basis to laugh at the world and revel in every second.  And on top of her being one of the kindest, most generous souls that I’ve ever met, she cooks like an absolute dream.  Tell me if it gets any better than that, because I couldn’t see how it could.

This recipe is of her invention, and I have to say that when I first heard the ingredients, I couldn’t imagine the taste profile that was ginger and lemon.  Ginger and lime, sure, but I couldn’t wrap my head around the lemon.  Well, upon tasting this chicken for the first time, I was schooled in the greatest of ways.  It was a revelation – bright, spicy, sweet and savory all at once, it immediately became my new favorite way to treat chicken.

Since then, I’ve served this chicken grilled, baked and pan seared.  Works perfectly with each preparation.  When I serve this to friends, I have to make inordinate amounts because it is consumed with such vigor, I run out like it’s nothing.  I’m not surprised, though.  Vo has always been an expert, and has yet to steer me wrong.  All I can say is that when you enjoy this chicken, make it for those in your family (immediate and extended) that inspire you on a daily basis and need a bit of a thank you in culinary form.

Recipe for

Grilled Ginger Lemon Chicken

Ingredients
1 whole chicken, cut up
juice of 2-3 lemons
2 cl. of garlic
4 in. of ginger root, peeled and minced
4 tbs. of olive oil
1/4 tsp. of black pepper
1/4 tsp. of white pepper
3/4 tsp. of salt

In a food processor, blend all ingredients except for chicken until a smooth paste.  If you don’t have a food processor, chop ginger and garlic finely and whisk with with other ingredients (except for chicken) until a smooth sauce.  Add chicken to a large bowl and pour marinade over chicken.  Let rest for at least an hour and up to overnight.

Heat a grill or grill pan to smoking hot.  Turn down heat to medium low and place chicken on grill, skin-side down.  Cook for 15 minutes until skin is browned and crisped up.  Flip chicken and cook for another 17 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through and juices run clear when pierced with a fork.  Let rest for 5 minutes to redistribute juices and then serve.

Herbed Pilaf

Although I don’t have access to a plot of land to cultivate my green thumb, I make do with every inch of real estate available to me in my apartment with my itty-bitty home garden.  It saves me quick dashes to the store to buy expensive fresh herbs, and I’m further encouraged to include them in dishes as opposed to dried herbs.  It’s an absolute boon, and truly, a window garden is very little work.  Not to mention the fact that with a little sun and water, basil, dill, parsley and mint are practically unstoppable.

This simple rice pilaf is a celebration of the goodness of fresh herbs – if you are not inclined to grow your own, pick up the prettiest, leafiest bunches from the store or farmer’s market and go to town.  This is one of those “make-it-your-own” kind of deals, so absolutely be creative.  I like a combination of dill, mint, basil, thyme and parsley, but sage, savory, rosemary and fennel also work well.

I use chicken broth in lieu of all water in this recipe, but if you’d like to keep things vegetarian, replace the chicken broth with veggie stock to make things meat-free.  Scrap the butter for a little more olive oil, and you’ve got a vegan delight on your hands.  Yup, that easy.  And speaking of easy, these shots feature Marx Foods Palm Plates – biodegradeable gems that are as lovely to look at as they are sturdy and good for the environment.  Check ’em out!

Recipe for

Herbed Pilaf

Ingredients
2 c. of long grain rice
2 tbs. of butter
1 tbs. of olive oil
2 c. of chicken broth
scant 2 c. of water
1/2 tsp. of salt
pinch of black pepper
1/4 c. of mixed herbs, loosely packed

Begin by roughly chopping the herbs.  Heat the butter and olive oil in a medium pot.  Add the rice, broth, water, salt and pepper and bring mixture to a boil.  Once boiling, toss the herbs on top and cover.  Turn heat to low and cook until all water has been absorbed, about 15 minutes.  Fluff rice with a fork and serve.